减盐减油怎么减？长沙这家黑珍珠餐厅交出“减法”答卷

The WHO recommends that adults eat less than 5 grams of salt a day; most of the world eats about twice that. In Changsha, central China, Xuji Seafood's Blue Kylin — a fine-dining seafood restaurant that has held a one-diamond rating for three straight years in the Black Pearl Restaurant Guide, often called China's answer to the Michelin Guide — is running a "subtraction experiment": less salt, less oil, no less flavour. Its stove now holds only a few seasonings — salt, sugar, MSG — with soy and oyster sauce used sparingly, and every dish follows a standard recipe card that fixes exactly how much oil and salt goes in: where many kitchens use a heaped spoonful, this one measures out 0.6 of a teaspoon. One signature dish, tofu braised with spiny lobster, skips the usual oil coating and simmers instead in lobster and chicken stock — bean paste replaces salt, and no extra oil is needed at all.

世界卫生组织建议成人每日食盐不超过 5 克，而全球人均摄入量几乎是这个数字的两倍。在中国中部的长沙，徐记海鲜·蓝麒麟——一家连续三年获评“黑珍珠餐厅指南”一钻、常被称作“中国版米其林”的高端海鲜餐厅——正在做一场“减法实验”：减盐、减油，却不减风味。后厨灶台上只剩盐、糖、味精等少数几种调料，蚝油和酱油都很少用；每道菜配一张标准成本卡，油和盐的用量精确固定——不少餐馆一勺盐是舀满的，它只用 0.6 小勺。以"湘味豆腐烩小青龙"为例，厨师不用油裹豆腐，改用龙虾汤和鸡汤慢炖，加少许豆瓣酱后不再放盐、也不再额外加油，豆腐照样鲜甜。

The experiment sits inside a wider public-health effort. Daily salt intake in Hunan Province runs about twice China's recommended limit; in 2025 the province launched a three-year plan to cut salt and oil, with Changsha among its first pilot cities, and some 20 restaurants here have since introduced about 300 lighter dishes. "Cutting salt and oil is ultimately about eating better," says Su Guiying, the restaurant's general manager. "We're just refining the seasoning." Diners from the Greater Bay Area have long appreciated the lighter approach, she says, and more local guests are warming to it too. The restaurant says it will keep exploring its menu and nutrition, aiming to make good food and healthy food the same thing.

这背后是湖南正在推进的一项公共健康行动：湖南居民日均食盐摄入量约为国家标准的两倍，2025 年湖南启动为期三年的“减盐减油”行动计划，长沙是首批试点城市之一，目前已有约 20 家餐厅试点推出约 300 道减盐减油菜品。“减盐减油，本质上是倡导健康饮食。”餐厅总经理苏桂英说，“我们只是把调味做得更精致。”她注意到，来自粤港澳大湾区的客人一直很认同清淡的做法，如今接受的本地客人也越来越多。餐厅表示，将继续在菜品研发和营养搭配上探索，让好吃与健康更好地兼顾。